Most of us want specific breeds for particular reasons, whether it’s for ornamental reasons, egg-laying capabilities or meat of a certain flavor. To ensure you get the breeds you want, order as early as possible. As chicken keeping continues to grow in popularity, breed favorites disappear from availability quickly.
For the sake of the little birds that will be shipped to your post office, seek out a hatchery in your own region of the country. U.S. Postal Service shipping of live animals is always an expedited service, as is reflected by the shipping price that’s higher than the cost of the chicks. However, the longer the day-old chicks remain in transport, the more stress they will endure. Weak chick that might struggle to survive under the best of conditions aren’t likely to survive a stressful trip. The shorter the trip, the more likely your chicks are to be thriving upon arrival. Sourcing chicks locally is also an option.
Whether you build your own brooder or purchase a brooder kit, a brooder is essentially a nursery for baby chicks, and it must be ready the moment chicks arrive.
Kids tend to squeeze chicks. Practice holding chicks with your kids—a hard-boiled egg, a nectarine, or something else small and chick-sized will do the trick. Chicks should be held firmly but gently. Kids should also know that it’s better for the chick to escape their hands than it is to prevent their escape with a squeeze.
Chirping boxes are irresistible, especially for kids, but when your chicks arrive insist on opening the box alone. In the rare event that a weak chick didn’t survive the trip, you need to know first so you can break the news gently to young children.
It’s tempting to play with baby chicks when they arrive, but they need to be moved to their brooder immediately once they’re in your care. Be mindful of how long the chicks have been in transport. From the time they hatch, they need food and water within the first 72 hours of life. While transport through the mail is safe, shipping can be stressful for some chicks. Getting them to food and water, and assessing any health concerns has to be the first priority.
When chicks’ droppings dry to the outside of the vent, it creates a plug. We call this pasty butt, and it’s deadly if the plug isn’t removed. Check for pasty butt when you move each chick from the shipping box to the brooder. If you find pasty butt, hold the chick firmly, and soak its bottom in warm water. The poop will dissolve quickly, and it will rub right off. Pat her dry, and place her under the brooder’s heat source so she doesn’t get cold. Chicks who get pasty butt are prone to develop it again, so be sure to check it often. Continue checking the entire flock for at least the first week of life.
Chicks grow astoundingly fast. Soon, they’ll outgrow their brooder and will need to move to the coop. If you’re building a coop, complete it before your chicks arrive, even if it will be several weeks before they move in, to avoid setbacks or predator vulnerabilities caused by rushing the job. If you’re ordering a coop, make sure it arrives before your chicks do, not on the same day.
If your chickens will be egg-laying pets, and if you care for them well, some can live up to 10 years or more. Bringing home backyard chickens isn’t very different than bringing home a new puppy or kitten, except that chickens are harder to re-home. Visit a farm and learn how to care for chickens, or get nitty-gritty chicken-keeping tips from other chicken keepers before you place your hatchery order.
Today's article tackles one of the least endearing qualities of our beloved hens – bullying.
It is more than establishing the ‘pecking order’- it is systematically picking on one or two hens for no apparent reason.
Bullying can be limited to feather plucking or it can escalate into full blown warfare with the receiving hen being severely injured or possibly killed.
In this article we will cover what the usual causes of bullying are, how to stop them pecking each other and finally what to do when you need to intervene.
The hot summer is around the corner. That being the case, the flies are going to start becoming a problem around the chicken coop. We have discovered that the best way to get rid of the flies is to stop them from breeding.
While you’re never going to get rid of ALL of them, you can do a good job decreasing the population, especially if you have just a few chickens. Studies show that if you get rid of flies in your chicken coop, Campylobacter is less likely to spread, keeping you, your family, and your flock healthier.